\u0130spanya\u2019n\u0131n End\u00fcl\u00fcs b\u00f6lgesinde, Guadalquivir Nehri\u2019nin k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda kurulan Cordoba\u2019ya ayak bast\u0131\u011f\u0131mda zihnimde bir soru belirdi: Bir \u015fehir, ge\u00e7mi\u015finin ihti\u015fam\u0131n\u0131 ne kadar koruyabilir?<\/p>\n
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Trenden indi\u011fimde beni kar\u015f\u0131layan \u015fey b\u00fcy\u00fck meydanlar ya da modern caddeler de\u011fil, y\u00fczy\u0131llar\u0131n i\u00e7inden s\u00fcz\u00fcl\u00fcp gelmi\u015f dar sokaklar oldu. Beyaz badanal\u0131 evler, \u00e7i\u00e7eklerle s\u00fcslenmi\u015f avlular ve her k\u00f6\u015fe ba\u015f\u0131nda hissedilen portakal \u00e7i\u00e7e\u011fi kokusu… Fakat Cordoba\u2019y\u0131 Cordoba yapan as\u0131l unsur bunlar\u0131n hi\u00e7biri de\u011fildi. \u015eehrin kalbinde y\u00fckselen ve bug\u00fcn d\u00fcnyan\u0131n en s\u0131ra d\u0131\u015f\u0131 mimari eserlerinden biri kabul edilen Kurtuba Camii-Katedraliydi. Yap\u0131ya do\u011fru y\u00fcr\u00fcrken Avrupa ve \u0130slam tarihinin en \u00f6nemli kesi\u015fim noktalar\u0131ndan birine yakla\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131 hissediyordum.<\/p>\n
Cordoba\u2019n\u0131n hik\u00e2yesi Roma \u0130mparatorlu\u011fu d\u00f6nemine kadar uzan\u0131r. M\u00d6 169 y\u0131l\u0131nda Romal\u0131lar taraf\u0131ndan kurulan \u015fehir, Hispania eyaletinin \u00f6nemli merkezlerinden biri h\u00e2line geldi. Daha sonra Vizigotlar\u0131n h\u00e2kimiyetine giren \u015fehir, 711 y\u0131l\u0131nda Tar\u0131k bin Ziyad\u2019\u0131n \u00f6nc\u00fcl\u00fc\u011f\u00fcnde ba\u015flayan M\u00fcsl\u00fcman fetihleri sonras\u0131nda yeni bir d\u00f6neme ad\u0131m att\u0131. \u0130\u015fte End\u00fcl\u00fcs tarihinin en parlak sayfalar\u0131 da bu d\u00f6nemde yaz\u0131lacakt\u0131.<\/p>\n
750 y\u0131l\u0131nda \u015eam\u2019daki Emev\u00ee Devleti Abbasiler taraf\u0131ndan y\u0131k\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131nda hanedan \u00fcyelerinin b\u00fcy\u00fck b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fc \u00f6ld\u00fcr\u00fcld\u00fc. Ancak gen\u00e7 prens Abdurrahman uzun ve tehlikeli bir ka\u00e7\u0131\u015f\u0131n ard\u0131ndan End\u00fcl\u00fcs\u2019e ula\u015fmay\u0131 ba\u015fard\u0131. Tarihin “Abdurrahman ed-D\u00e2hil” olarak tan\u0131d\u0131\u011f\u0131 bu h\u00fck\u00fcmdar, 756 y\u0131l\u0131nda End\u00fcl\u00fcs Emev\u00ee Devleti\u2019ni kurdu ve ba\u015fkent olarak Cordoba\u2019y\u0131 se\u00e7ti. \u015eehrin kaderi i\u015fte bu kararla de\u011fi\u015fti.<\/p>\n
Abdurrahman (I. Abdurrahman), yeni devletin g\u00fcc\u00fcn\u00fc ve me\u015fruiyetini g\u00f6sterecek b\u00fcy\u00fck bir cami yapt\u0131rmak istiyordu. 785 y\u0131l\u0131nda eski bir Vizigot kilisesinin bulundu\u011fu alanda Kurtuba Camii\u2019nin temelleri at\u0131ld\u0131. \u0130lk bak\u0131\u015fta sade g\u00f6r\u00fcnen bu yap\u0131 zamanla \u0130slam mimarisinin en \u00f6nemli eserlerinden biri h\u00e2line gelecekti.<\/p>\n
![\"Kurtuba](\"https:\/\/upload.wikimedia.org\/wikipedia\/commons\/6\/6c\/Mezquita_de_C%C3%B3rdoba_desde_el_aire_%28C%C3%B3rdoba%2C_Espa%C3%B1a%29.jpg\")
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\u00d6zellikle III. Abdurrahman d\u00f6neminde \u015fehir alt\u0131n \u00e7a\u011f\u0131n\u0131 ya\u015fad\u0131. 929 y\u0131l\u0131nda kendisini halife ilan eden III. Abdurrahman, End\u00fcl\u00fcs Emev\u00ee Devleti\u2019ni bir hilafete d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcrd\u00fc. B\u00f6ylece Cordoba; Ba\u011fdat\u2019taki Abbasiler ve Kahire\u2019deki Fat\u0131milerle birlikte \u0130slam d\u00fcnyas\u0131n\u0131n \u00fc\u00e7 b\u00fcy\u00fck merkezinden biri h\u00e2line geldi. \u015eehirde y\u00fcz binlerce insan ya\u015f\u0131yor, sokaklar geceleri bile ayd\u0131nlat\u0131l\u0131yor, hamamlar, hastaneler ve k\u00fct\u00fcphaneler hizmet veriyordu. Halife II. Hakem\u2019in k\u00fct\u00fcphanesinde y\u00fcz binlerce cilt eser bulundu\u011fu rivayet edilir. Avrupa\u2019n\u0131n b\u00fcy\u00fck b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fcnde okuryazarl\u0131k son derece d\u00fc\u015f\u00fckken Cordoba\u2019da bilim insanlar\u0131 astronomi, matematik, t\u0131p ve felsefe alanlar\u0131nda \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmalar y\u00fcr\u00fct\u00fcyordu. Tarih\u00e7iler de o d\u00f6nemde Cordoba\u2019n\u0131n Avrupa\u2019n\u0131n en geli\u015fmi\u015f \u015fehirlerinden biri oldu\u011funu belirtmi\u015ftir.<\/p>\n
Caminin i\u00e7ine girdi\u011fimde kar\u015f\u0131ma \u00e7\u0131kan manzara nefes kesiciydi. Bir orman\u0131 and\u0131ran s\u00fctunlar, ufka do\u011fru uzan\u0131yormu\u015f hissi veren kemerler ve ta\u015f\u0131n i\u00e7ine i\u015flenmi\u015f geometrik d\u00fczen\u2026<\/p>\n
Bug\u00fcn yap\u0131da yakla\u015f\u0131k sekiz y\u00fcz elli s\u00fctun bulunmaktad\u0131r. Mermer, granit ve jasper gibi farkl\u0131 ta\u015flardan yap\u0131lan bu s\u00fctunlar\u0131n \u00f6nemli bir b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fc Roma ve Vizigot yap\u0131lar\u0131ndan getirilmi\u015ftir. K\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 ve beyaz renkli \u00e7ift katl\u0131 kemerler ise estetik bir tercih denilebilir ama bu tercihi as\u0131l \u00f6nemli k\u0131lan \u015fey ise daha y\u00fcksek in\u015fa edilmesini sa\u011flayan m\u00fchendislik \u00e7\u00f6z\u00fcm\u00fc olmas\u0131d\u0131r.<\/p>\n
Bahsetti\u011fim tarihi atmosferi d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnerek caminin mihrab\u0131na do\u011fru ilerledim. Yap\u0131n\u0131n en etkileyici b\u00f6l\u00fcmlerinden biri olan mihrap, Bizansl\u0131 ustalar\u0131n yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 alt\u0131n mozaiklerle s\u00fcslenmi\u015fti. I\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131n mozaikler \u00fczerindeki yans\u0131mas\u0131, aradan ge\u00e7en bin y\u0131ldan sonra bile b\u00fcy\u00fcleyici g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcyordu. End\u00fcl\u00fcs sanat\u0131n\u0131n ula\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131 seviyeyi anlamak i\u00e7in yaln\u0131zca bu b\u00f6l\u00fcme bakmak bile yeterli idi asl\u0131nda.<\/p>\n
Ancak tarih yaln\u0131zca y\u00fckseli\u015flerden olu\u015fmaz. On birinci y\u00fczy\u0131ldan itibaren End\u00fcl\u00fcs, siyasi par\u00e7alanma s\u00fcrecine girdi. Bir zamanlar \u0130slam d\u00fcnyas\u0131n\u0131n en g\u00fc\u00e7l\u00fc merkezlerinden biri olan Cordoba eski ihti\u015fam\u0131n\u0131 yava\u015f yava\u015f kaybetmeye ba\u015flad\u0131. Nihayet 1236 y\u0131l\u0131nda Kastilya Kral\u0131 III. Fernando \u015fehri ele ge\u00e7irdi. \u0130\u015fte Kurtuba Camii\u2019nin ikinci hayat\u0131 da bu noktada ba\u015flad\u0131.<\/p>\n
\u015eehrin Hristiyanlar\u0131n kontrol\u00fcne ge\u00e7mesinin ard\u0131ndan cami y\u0131k\u0131lmad\u0131. Bunun yerine kiliseye d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcr\u00fcld\u00fc. Sonraki y\u00fczy\u0131llarda yap\u0131n\u0131n merkezine b\u00fcy\u00fck bir katedral b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fc in\u015fa edildi. G\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde ziyaret\u00e7ileri en \u00e7ok \u015fa\u015f\u0131rtan g\u00f6r\u00fcnt\u00fc de bu olabilir. Bir tarafta \u0130slam mimarisinin zarif s\u00fctunlar\u0131 y\u00fckselirken di\u011fer tarafta gotik ve R\u00f6nesans tarz\u0131ndaki Hristiyan mimarisi g\u00f6r\u00fcl\u00fcr. Bu durum ilk ba\u015fta uyumsuz gibi g\u00f6r\u00fcnse de asl\u0131nda Cordoba\u2019n\u0131n tarihini yans\u0131t\u0131r. Ayn\u0131 yap\u0131 i\u00e7erisinde farkl\u0131 dinlerin, k\u00fclt\u00fcrlerin ve medeniyetlerin izleri yan yana durmaktad\u0131r.<\/p>\n
![\"CORDOBA'DA](\"https:\/\/www.bizevdeyokuz.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/la-mezquita-cordoba.jpg\")
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Yap\u0131n\u0131n merkezindeki katedral b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fcne ula\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131mda \u0130spanya Kral\u0131 V. Carlos\u2019un me\u015fhur s\u00f6z\u00fcn\u00fc hat\u0131rlad\u0131m. Rivayete g\u00f6re katedral in\u015faat\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcnde \u015f\u00f6yle demi\u015fti: \u201cHer yerde yap\u0131labilecek bir \u015feyi yapmak i\u00e7in d\u00fcnyada e\u015fi benzeri olmayan bir yap\u0131n\u0131n bir b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fcn\u00fc y\u0131km\u0131\u015fs\u0131n\u0131z.\u201d Bu s\u00f6z\u00fcn tarihsel do\u011frulu\u011fu tart\u0131\u015f\u0131lsa da yap\u0131n\u0131n e\u015fsizli\u011fi konusunda kimsenin itiraz\u0131 olmasa gerek.<\/p>\n
Gezimin sonunda portakal a\u011fa\u00e7lar\u0131yla \u00e7evrili avluya \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131m. Bug\u00fcn turistlerin foto\u011fraf \u00e7ekti\u011fi bu sakin alan, y\u00fczy\u0131llar boyunca ibadet eden insanlar\u0131n ge\u00e7ti\u011fi bir ge\u00e7i\u015f mek\u00e2n\u0131 idi. G\u00f6\u011fe do\u011fru y\u00fckselen \u00e7an kulesine bakt\u0131\u011f\u0131mda onun asl\u0131nda eski caminin minaresi oldu\u011funu d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnmek beni derinden etkiledi.<\/p>\n
Cordoba\u2019dan ayr\u0131l\u0131rken akl\u0131mda yaln\u0131zca g\u00fczel foto\u011fraflar yoktu. Bu \u015fehir bana tarihin siyah ve beyaz olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 hat\u0131rlatm\u0131\u015ft\u0131. Kurtuba Camii-Katedrali, farkl\u0131 medeniyetlerin birbirini tamamen yok etmeden de ayn\u0131 mek\u00e2nda iz b\u0131rakabilece\u011finin somut bir kan\u0131t\u0131 gibiydi.<\/p>\n
.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
\u0130spanya\u2019n\u0131n End\u00fcl\u00fcs b\u00f6lgesinde, Guadalquivir Nehri\u2019nin k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda kurulan Cordoba\u2019ya ayak bast\u0131\u011f\u0131mda zihnimde bir soru belirdi: Bir…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":36,"featured_media":4512,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_bbp_topic_count":0,"_bbp_reply_count":0,"_bbp_total_topic_count":0,"_bbp_total_reply_count":0,"_bbp_voice_count":0,"_bbp_anonymous_reply_count":0,"_bbp_topic_count_hidden":0,"_bbp_reply_count_hidden":0,"_bbp_forum_subforum_count":0,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"_uag_custom_page_level_css":"","ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[18],"tags":[],"ppma_author":[220],"class_list":["post-4509","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-gezi"],"yoast_head":"\n